Why is discipline so strong in restaurant kitchens?

Edward Kwon

Edward Kwon, famous as former head chef at the luxurious Burj al Arab Hotel in Dubai, was no nice guy in a number of TV programs including “Yes Chef,” which aired on a local cable TV network.

He hurled invectives at seemingly innocent contestants to the extent he was compared to British chef Gordon Ramsay, well-known for his sharp tongue. In an interview, however, Kwon was not as bad as people may imagine from seeing him on television.

“Some people said it was inconsiderate of me to be so harsh to amateurs. But discipline should be strong in the apprenticeship system and that is especially the case in a kitchen because everything there such as knives, boiling water and oil can be used as a weapon,” Kwon said.

“As most chefs in restaurants are male, unlike at home, it is important to control them so they are not aggressive. There needs to be a sense of tension as though we stand on the blade of a straw cutter. A kitchen is a place where even chefs with more than 10 years of experience make mistakes such as cutting their finger.”

Throughout the interview, Kwon frequently showed deep affection for his chefs. As far as food quality is concerned, however, he instantly returned to his trademark attitude of pursuing perfection.

“Customers come to my restaurants with expectations of Edward Kwon’s food. This is the reason why each chef has to be Edward Kwon, while making no mistakes at all. And it can be achieved only by impeccable team work,” the chef said.

While Kwon emphasizes that he has no grand culinary philosophy, he said he doesn’t want to be ashamed of his own dishes.

“I know it is impossible to satisfy all the customers but I try to do so. For example, I put a lot of effort into creating and developing new dishes,” Kwon said, showing his mobile phone to this reporter.

“I take plenty of pictures every time I experience delicious food. I take ideas even from very simple food like this steamed egg.”

His principle of providing the best quality food extends to making it more affordable to a wider range of diners although it isn’t an easy task.

“I think more people should broadly enjoy high quality cuisine. Bubbles in prices block them from doing so. But the bigger problem is people’s attitude toward expensive restaurants. People generally tend to judge the food by its price. If there are two seolleongtang dishes and one cost 5,000 won and the other 30,000 won, those who can afford it will choose the latter, only because of the price. This creates a gap between the haves and have-nots.”

Seolleongtang is a traditional Korean soup made of ox bones.

In accordance with his belief, he opened LAB XXIV, a premium bistro, in the wealthy Cheongdam area in May 2011. This venue is yet to make a profit due to its reasonable pricing approach ― Kwon intentionally didn’t use the word “cheap” ― price.

He came up with the title with the mindset that the 26-seat restaurant is a laboratory where researchers, or chefs, develop new dishes around the clock.

“Cheongdam is an expensive area where we have to check our wallets before visiting. I wanted to change this prejudice when I opened LAB XXIV. I dreamed about this area becoming unique with inexpensive eateries back then. So I removed needless bubbles from the prices. LAB XXIV was a real thorn on the flesh of other restaurants in this district, many of whom closed down. Sadly, the prejudice about the area is yet to change,” Kwon said with a somewhat discouraged expression on his face.

“Some people asked me why on earth I don’t make profit with my restaurants. I want to earn money, of course. But I think it is more important to make people of all social strata experience this kind of high quality restaurant culture. Making profit comes next. If they get used to enjoying it, their children, who experienced good food since an early age, will become our loyal customers as well. They will make the fine dining industry popular,” he added.

After all, Kwon is a chef who finds pleasure in diners enjoying his food.

“I appreciate customers who are impressed by my food and express their feelings. In this regard, I love female customers.”

The writer is a Korea Times intern. <The Korea Times/Chung Hyun-chae>